This tutorial is not aimed at teaching you new methods in PhotoShop. Instead its just an illustration of an alternate way of solving a problem with the basic tools found in most graphic programs. There are many ways to approach image manipulation without relying on filters and actions that sometimes give you less than a satisfactory result. A combination of a simple approach combined with some filter use can be just as effective overall. In this example the only filter used was noise. As usual, all steps are done on separate layers.Here's the original source:It was chosen for its good color, range of density and interesting water droplets.
The original cherry on the left was chosen from the group of three. As a start, the Free Transform tool was used to stretch the cherry into a more oblong/squarish shape.To complete the basic foundation for the cubed look, I cut and pasted some areas from the original that contained details I intended to incorporate into the final and to add to the cubed effect. I elongated some of them with free transform. Some of the interior edges on the additions were softened a bit, with the eraser tool at 20%, to make the transition somewhat smoother.I sketched a guide on a separate layer showing the eventual shape/perspective to help in creating a proper cubed look.
Some highlight color from the cherry was picked up, and following the overlay guide, the brush tool at 20% opacity was used to add soft edge highlights to help create the cubed form. I like to use the brush tool at low opacity [about 10%] and build up the intensity in areas where a brighter highlight is needed...as on the upper forward corner.It gives more control and I think a more natural look to use multiple strokes instead of increased opacity.Since the light was coming from the upper right, the left side of the cherry needed to be in a bit of shadow. Picking up some of the darkest cherry color and using the brush tool at 50% a darker tone was added. Avoid getting it too opaque, allow some of the natural texture to show through. Always use colors from the object itself and not from the PS color palette. It creates a better match. If the proper density of color is not available from the object, pick up a color in the object close to it, make a swatch in the background, select it and darken or lighten it as needed for a source color. Most people would create a soft edged mask for this step. I didnt, I just brushed on the color and removed any part I didnt like with a soft edged eraser. I dont necessarily recommend this method, but I dont see the need to use a mask for every single procedure. Since this is on a separate layer I can still lighten, darken or adjust color without needing a mask. Just my quirk.Note: Getting the color right is the most important element in retouching and graphic arts. Your eye will pick up a minor color error much more quickly than it will notice a technical one.
Using the same technique, I brushed on a tone to the front side of the cherry.This was done with a higher opacity setting, 30 to 40%, with slightly different color densities and applied until it covered most of the detail below it. [I didnt like the look of most of the detail that existed. In other cases you may want to keep some of it.] Some darker color was brushed near the lower portion of the front to maintain a rounded look to the edges. Its important that the area doesnt look too flat and rigid since a cherry would not have a perfectly flat side. Noise was added to give it some texture. A cleanup of the edges and overall shape was done at this point.Adding some noise is essential to give almost all brushed/airbrushed areas a more realistic/photographic look.I brushed a slightly lighter cherry color on the upper right front surface to avoid a totally flat look and to tone down the too bright highlight on the right edge. At this point we can cut and paste some water droplets. I like to put them into position and using the eraser tool with a soft brush remove any areas around the droplets that dont work. I find I usually cant evaluate what needs to be removed until the object is in place. Sometimes Im surprised at how well something looks without much manipulation. For purposes like this I use the eraser at 10% opacity to get a very soft transition.
Were pretty near being done at this point. The droplets have had some shadows added. Again, this was done with the brush tool, at a small, soft setting and opacity at 10%. Build up the density of the shadows slowly so you can evaluate the results more critically. The larger drops cast a slightly darker shadow than the smaller ones. A proper stem was added with some final inspection and cleanup and shaping of edges and shapes.This is the final step. A necessary shadow was added to sit the cherry down.This shadow was added freehand on three different layers. The brush tool with soft edge applied black at 10% opacity. On one layer the basic shape was formed with lighter softer edges as the shadow recedes from the object. On a second layer the darker tone closer to the cherry was added. Both built up by repetitive strokes. On the third layer some dilute color picked up from the cherry was added since most strong colored objects reflect some of their color into shadows. Remember that shadows are darker and sharper close to the object and get softer edged and lighter as they recede. Trying to draw them this way is a bit difficult so I usually finish by touching them up with the eraser and smudge tool.I hope this was of some help to you. While I realize that this method can only be used on objects with a relatively smooth surface like cherries, peppers, plums etc., the idea of using a brush technique to solve other problems is something to consider. The use of the brush tool here is so simple it doesnt require great artistic skill. A bit of trial and error and youve got it.